Hiking from Gulpha Gorge Campground to Hot Springs National Park Visitor Center - Thursday, March 28, 2019

One of the reasons we chose the Gulpha Gorge Campground, besides its beauty, was so we could hike to the historic part of Hot Springs National Park. At noon, we crossed the stream in the campground to take Dead Chief Trail to Oertel Trail. That would take us around the base of Hot Springs Mountain into town. The distance was about 1.8 miles each way. 

The first part of the trail was steep.

We hiked around a couple of canyons.

View of Gulpha Gorge RV Park from the trail.

The trail system was developed by a doctor during the glory days of Hot Springs. The paths were part of an exercise system to be used in conjunction with the mineral baths.

Beautiful wildflowers started to line the trails and trees were leafing out. The woods are pretty right now. Magnolia trees are getting their buds, but haven't flowered. Dogwoods flowers are peeking out from their new greenery.

After hiking for about 45 minutes, we steeply descended onto the Grand Promenade. From there, we continued down the steps to Bath House Row. This is where all the hot springs flowed when the area was first discovered.

As you can imagine, Hot Springs became popular very quickly and everyone was trying to lay claim to their own hot springs. People were putting makeshift buildings over the springs and charging people to use them. 

Finally, the government had to step in and sort things out. The area is a natural treasure. After all, the water from these hot springs is 4,500 to 6,000 years old. The Egyptians were building their pyramids when the rainwater entered deep into the earth that would eventually come to the surface during our time.

As the years progressed, the government put green metal boxes over the hot springs that were exposed to protect them. Much of the hot water is diverted into the bathhouses on Bath House Row. 

Back in Hot Springs' heyday, many high society people would come "to take the waters." Part of the social experience was to dress in all your finery and stroll the Grand Promenade. We did it in our hiking boots, jeans, and T-shirts. Quite a bit different than years gone by.

The Grand Promenade

Natural hot spring - 143 degrees.

Fordyce Bathhouse - National Park Visitor Center.

Buckstaff Bathhouse - the only remaining,
continuously running bathhouse.

A stipulation was put into the making of Hot Springs National Park that the water from the springs would be made available free to the people. There are springs around town, some hot, some cold, where you can fill your containers with the odor-free mineral water.

Spring water, free for the taking.
Bring your own containers. 

Bob and I explored the Fordyce Bathhouse which has been restored and is now the National Park Visitor Center. You can see the opulence that once was. Men and women had separate sections in the bathhouse. Back then, the men's section of the bathhouse had the most room by 2/3 to 1/3. Women loved going for the pampering as well but had to endure long waits to get in. One of the bathhouse managers remarked that they misjudged how many women would want to enjoy the experience.

An entryway fountain in
Fordyce Bathhouse.

The stained glass ceiling in the Fordyce men's bathhouse.

A sculpture of DeSoto with an Indian maiden
in the men's section of the bathhouse.

Back out in the sunshine, Bob and I walked down the street toward the Visitor Center to find a brochure for the Historic Baseball Trail. On the hill above Bathhouse Row is the imposing Army-Navy Hospital. That complex of buildings is massive! It also has a very interesting history. 

The building is now the Arkansas Career Training Institute (formerly known as Hot Springs Rehabilitation Center--HSRC) run by Arkansas Rehabilitation Services. This was the first combined general hospital for both U.S. Army and Navy patients in the nation. The hospital was recognized as the army's leading center for dealing with arthritis, and during World War II, the facility became the largest center for treating adults with infantile paralysis in the country because of the therapeutic baths provided for patients. Between 1887 and World War II, the hospital treated over 100,000 people.

After World War II, many military men and women were returning from the battlefields of Europe and the Pacific. Many who suffered severe wounds or the loss of limbs were sent to Hot Springs to take advantage of the hydro-therapy sessions. If you are interested in the subject, read this article copyrighted by the Central Arkansas Library System.

The old Army-Navy Hospital on the hill.

We found the sign proclaiming Hot Springs as President Clinton's hometown. 

And we found the "Arkansas Walk of Fame" in the sidewalk in front of the Visitor Center. The Walk of Fame honors people:

• Who were born or lived in Arkansas
• Made a significant contribution in their field
• Are recognized nationally

Then we got to the city's Visitor Center and Bob found the Historic Baseball Trail map he was seeking. We also found the first historical markers about the origin of baseball's spring training.

As usual, all the hiking and touring made us hungry and it was lunchtime. We stumbled upon the Brick House Grill in Spencer's Corner (two historic buildings linked by a plaza). Lunch was good. Bob had a catfish sandwich and fries, I had potato soup and salad combo.

Interior of Brick House Grill.

Bob enjoying his catfish sandwich.

We were making up our walk as we went along. With the Historic Baseball Trail map in hand, we made our way to the Hot Springs Creek Greenway Trail and followed that 3/4 mile to a street where three more baseball historic markers were located. It was a very nice walk.

Huge baseball mural across from Brick House Grill.

Bob on the greenway trail.

Pretty painting over a storm drain.

"The Indian and Maiden," by John Mark Baker

The trail followed the creek.

Pretty flowers.

I love these.

Grape hyacinths.

We had to search a little, but we found the baseball historic markers. You may recognize some of these names.

We then turned around and took the greenway trail back to Bath House Row. A local bakery caught our eye and we stopped in for sweet rolls. Then we walked along Bath House Row all the way to the other end of town to continue our quest for baseball signs. Other interesting places popped up on the walk.

Cute painting on this shop.

Whimsical mural of the fairy garden at
Garvan Woodland Gardens.

We were impressed by the 16-story Medical Arts Building which is now mostly abandoned. This was the tallest building in Arkansas from 1930 to 1960. It was advertised as the "Skyscraper of Health," and housed 55 physician's offices, and five commercial businesses. The first floor was home to a florist and a drug store. The 15th floor housed a medical library. 

It was a stunning building in its day with two brass-trimmed elevators run by uniformed operators. Corridors featured terrazzo floors and Arkansas marble wainscoting. Tall ceilings and large windows were designed to keep the building cool in the summer. The exterior was brick and reinforced concrete. Bas-relief limestone carvings on the frieze and on the facing of the main entrance are other notable features. (Information was obtained from an article hanging inside the front door.)

Medical Arts Building.

Storm drain.

We found more of the Historic Baseball Trail markers. It's interesting how many of them were helped by "taking the waters."

Our next stop was the Arlington Hotel. This is a very impressive edifice. The original hotel was across the street and burned to the ground. In just under two years, they opened the new hotel. That was quick work!

Elevators in the Arlington Hotel.

There was nothing I could find that explained what these bathtub trophies were for, but I thought they were pretty awesome. 

Best Over-all Tub 2016.

From the Arlington Hotel, we went across the street to the park to see another one of the natural hot springs that had not been enclosed. A steep path led up to the Grand Promenade. We walked the Grand Promenade back to the trail home. 

Bob on the Oertel Trail heading back.

The shadows were long and we knew sunset was about 7:30 p.m. It was 6:00 p.m. so we knew we had time to make it back to the campground before it got dark. We didn't have a flashlight and definitely did not want to get stuck on a pitch black trail without one.

We made it home in plenty of time and promptly ate dinner. I think we had a spinach salad. It was a wonderful day with perfect spring weather for walking.

Tomorrow, we are going to Garvan Woodland Gardens. Our schedule is being dictated by the weather. On Saturday, it is supposed to rain, so we want to do our outdoorsy things when it's nice out.