Gates of the Mountains Boat Tour: a Relaxing Experience - Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Yesterday, Bob, Diane Howell Evans, and I did the 11k Helena, Montana, Volksmarch. For Diane and I, it capped our goal of walking in all 51 U.S. capitals (including Washington, D.C.). 

Today, we are resting. By that I mean, we (Bob, Diane, her husband Rick, and I) are taking a two-hour boat tour called Gates of the Mountains out of north Helena, Montana. 

Upon arrival at the marina, we checked in at the office/gift shop to pick up our tickets. Then we went to a pavilion next to the marina to wait for our tour to leave. The pavilion contained the history of the area: Lewis & Clark Expedition, flora and fauna, Mann Gulch Fire, and geology. 

Two tour boats headed out today. We were able to choose the boat we wanted to be on. One boat, "Sacajawea II," was open air and had a planned stop to use the "facilities" at a picnic area half-way through our ride. The other boat, "Canyon Voyager" (the one we chose), had a bathroom on board, seating was covered and enclosed, although all the windows were all open, and there was also an outside seating area. 

Turns out we picked the boat with Brian Zimmerman as captain and tour guide. He is the manager of Gates of the Mountains Boat Tours. Good choice of boat and guide. 

[NOTE: I wanted to mention that this boat tour has been on my bucket list since the boys were 13 and 9, that's 54 years! We tried to go on it back then, but I miscalculated the time it would take to get here from Glacier National Park and the last tour of the day was sailing away as we drove in on the access road. Time flies. Eventually, you will be able to do things on your bucket list (if you have one).]

Entering Gates of the Mountains
Recreation Area

Our first wildlife sighting.

Brian Zimmerman, manager,
captain, tour guide.

I've had people comment that no one on the tour was wearing masks. All the windows were open with a steady flow of fresh air as we made our way down-river. The boat was not full. We didn't have much contact with others.

Bob on the tour boat. 

Diane Howell Evans. 

We started out in scenery like this. 

The tour brochure describes the experience like this:

"Nestled halfway between Yellowstone and Glacier National Park beats the heart of Montana named the Gates of the Mountains by the undaunted explorer Meriwether Lewis, July 19, 1805. He wrote in his journal 'this evening we entered much the most remarkable cliffs that we have yet seen. These cliffs rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the height of 1200 feet.'"*

Our first wildlife sighting was a deer at the edge of the water. The area is also home to black bear, bighorn sheep, moose, otters, ermine, beaver, and even cougars. Our guide explained to us that mountain goats do not do well here. The reason is that mountain goats are used to living in higher, more hostile environments and they are not used to looking UP for predators. Here, there are more predators that attack from above than there are at higher elevations, so mountain goats are at a disadvantage. 

It wasn't long before we were dwarfed by towering Madison Limestone cliffs. The cliffs are punctuated with hundreds of small holes, caves, and natural bridges showing the force of the Madison River over eons.

"The river appears to have forced its way through this immense body of solid rock for the distance of 5-3/4 miles and where it makes its exit below has thrown on either side vast columns of rocks mountains high."*

Today, 20 miles down the Missouri River is a hydroelectric dam named after Anton Holter, Holter Dam, so the campsite of Meriwether Lewis is covered by the waters of Holter Lake. Holter Lake did not exist in the time of Meriwether Lewis so the columns of rock looked 60' higher then than they do today.

An opening to one of the caves in the limestone.

Limestone cliffs.

Holter Lake formed by the Madison River.

Helena formation (Mesoproterozoic).

Along the way, Brian pointed out the nests of a pair of bald eagles in a tree and an osprey nest atop a rock formation.

Center bottom is an osprey sitting in the nest. 

Note the huge bald eagle nest at
the top of the tree on the left.

We passed a picnic area and a couple of camping areas accessible only by boat.

Coulter Campground.

Meriwether Picnic Area.

Find your own place to camp!

Arch.

Pictographs.

The flora (Kelseya Uniflora) that looks like broccoli in the photo below is rare. Kelseya is in the rose family and clings to rocky cliffs around here. It was discovered by Francis Duncan Kelsey in 1888. If you come to the Gates of the Mountains when it is blooming, the canyon walls would be covered in pink.

Kelseya Uniflora

When Meriwether Lewis and crew were exploring the Missouri River trying to find a passage through to the West, upon first encountering the area now known as Gates of the Mountains, it looked to them like a dead end due to the configuration of the rock walls. However, as they got closer, it looked like the rock walls opened up and they found where the river flowed through. 

When we got to the area where the Gates of the Mountains were, our captain moved the boat around so that we could see how the passage disappeared from view, and then reappeared. Of course, back then it looked much different, wilder, there was no dam in place to tame the river.

As our tour boat gently motored on the lake behind the dam, Brian pointed out different rock formations that people thought looked like elephants, rhinoceros, and a monkey face. There were lots of opportunities to find your own rock formation to be creative in designating what it might look like.

Here's one right in front of us.

Brian also told us the story of the Mann Gulch Fire in 1949. Thirteen firefighters, most of them smokejumpers, lost their lives. They got trapped when the fire came back on itself, surrounding them. It is reminiscent of the Yarnell Hill Fire in Arizona in 2013 when 19 Granite Mountain Hotshots lost their lives. 

And in 2007, most of the wilderness was burned by the Meriwether Fire. Trees and shrubs are starting to regrow in this area.

Gorgeous scenery and weather today.

Gates of the Mountain marina.

I am in front of "Canyon Voyager."

After a visit to the gift shop, where everyone wore their masks, we headed back to north Helena and the four of us had lunch at Grub Stake Restaurant. It was a very nice time spent getting acquainted with our new friends, Rick and Diane. We have a lot in common and plan to see them the next time we travel to the Olympic Peninsula. 

After lunch, we invited them over to see our 5th wheel. Then they headed home and we got ready to head out in the morning.

Tomorrow, we will make our way to Island Park, Idaho. 

* Meriwether Lewis quotes are from "The Journals of Lewis & Clark, Volume 4," Gary E. Moulton, editor.

A Great Workout (or they're trying to kill us) - Sat., Oct. 25, 2014

“Begin at the beginning," the King said, very gravely, "and go on till you come to the end: then stop.”
                                               ~Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland

At 8:30 a.m. Bob and I started our 10K (6.2 mile) Jefferson City State Pen Path (Capital) Volksmarch. We had it in our heads that we would do the first part of our walk and make it to the state capital in time for the 9:00 a.m. tour. Ha!

We did not anticipate interesting history along the way. (The history was not included in the Volksmarch even though there were two places where it was only a block off the route to learn more.)

First detour we made was to go a block off the walk route for a good view of the two US 63/US 54 highway bridges over the Missouri River, one northbound, one southbound.

Bridges at Jefferson City over the Missouri River

The walk instructions had us go through a historic neighborhood with a couple of B&Bs, then said to turn right at the bottom of a hill. We looked to the left toward the river and saw a Union Pacific logo and what looked like history markers. Again, we went a block off the walk route and found a very interesting history display.

In your journeys you may see (or have seen) the Train Town USA logo. In 2012, Union Pacific Railroad celebrated its sesquicentennial (150 years). 

Union Pacific began building west from Missouri to the Pacific Ocean, opening the frontier to immigrants who settled in existing communities or started new ones. Union Pacific invited communities along the rail lines to join the "Train Town USA" registry. The registry is open to all incorporated communities along Union Pacific tracks or terminals. Elected city officials and executive members of the Chamber of Commerce filled out an application to become a "Train Town USA."

The "Train Town USA" emblem in Jefferson City is displayed at the Centennial Park plaza built by Rotary Club International in the Bolivar Street neighborhood. The Bolivar Street neighborhood used to be mostly working class German immigrants. In the 1850s, two changes transformed the neighborhood into the city's industrial area: one was the improvement of streets and footbridges that connected the area to the rest of the city east of it, and the other was the railroad. The industrial area was known as Millbottom. Millbottom was named for the mills that operated there.

In the mid-1880s there was Victoria Mill, Jefferson City Gasworks, Capitol Star Mill, and the Missouri Pacific Railroad Company roundhouse. Besides these large commercial businesses were other businesses, many with residential space above, and warehouses. Today, many of the nice older homes have been converted to office space.

At the end of the 19th century, Jefferson City was doing very well as the state capital. BUT, all was threatened by a battle over whether the state capital should remain in Jefferson City. Sedalia argued that, because there was no bridge, Jefferson City was inaccessible to residents north of the Missouri River. St. Charles thought Jefferson City was devoid of culture, just a way station as the country moved westward. Ah, politics.

To protect and ensure the city's prosperity, in 1893 a special committee of the local Commercial Club organized to raise money to build a bridge. A corporation formed by businessmen and property owners raised the entire $225,000 to finance the bridge. In the photo below is the site where the bridge was built.

Site of former Bolivar Street Bridge.

The toll bridge opened in 1896. By 1932 the bond was retired and the bridge turned over to the state as a "free" bridge. In 1934, for $7,000, the state installed the art deco pillars. The rotating bridge served horse- and ox-drawn carts, horseback riders, foot traffic and motor vehicles until it was replaced in 1955 by the current (west) bridge. And that is how Jefferson City remained the state capital.

Speaking of the capital, let's get back to our walk. We rejoined the route and continued up a hill to the Capitol.

The grounds around the capital are filled with monuments, fountains and statues. It was quite fun to explore.

Signing the Louisiana Purchase

Capitol in Jefferson City, Missouri

Frieze on the outside of the Capitol

Capitol dome topped by a sculpture of Ceres,
Roman goddess of grain and agriculture

Cat griffin lamp

Below is the Mississippi River Statue by Robert Aitken. The male figure represents the Mississippi River, often called the "Father of Waters." In his left hand the rudder of commerce and the anchor of a steamboat represent the significance of river trade. The caduceus in his right hand was the magic wand of Hermes, the god of travelers and commerce. He rests upon a cornucopia which symbolizes agriculture. The alligator by his knee is a reminder of what life is like on the southern portion of the river. The dolphin behind him is a symbol of good luck to travelers of the river, and three smaller fish represent the river as a source of fishing and recreation.

Mississippi River Statue

Alligator by Mississippi River Statue's knee.

Thomas Jefferson whom the city is named after

Pediment over main entrance

Below is the Missouri River Statue also designed by Robert Aitkin. The female figure crowned with cattails represents the Missouri River. Her left arm rests on a cornucopia of fruit while she holds a stalk of corn in her left hand and a bundle of wheat in her right hand. The turtle by her knee represents one of the many small animals dependent upon the river, and the catfish and four smaller fish behind her represent the river as a source of fishing and recreation.

Bob with Missouri River Statue

There are more sculptures, a Missouri Veterans Memorial, Liberty Bell, Fountain of the Centaurs, Fountain of the Arts, Fountain of the Sciences, a Missouri Law Enforcement Memorial and a Liberty Bell reproduction on the grounds outside.

Then we went inside. On the first floor of the Capitol, is the Missouri State Museum. On our first turn inside the museum, we were hooked and ended up spending about 1-1/2 hours there. Bob and I never knew what became of Lewis and Clark after their famous expedition to the Pacific Ocean. While we were reading about governors of Missouri, we came upon the portraits of Meriwether Lewis, who was governor of Missouri from 1807-1809, and William Clark served as governor from 1813-1820. We were amazed neither of us were aware of what happened to Lewis and Clark after their expedition. Now we know.

The museum covered the history of Missouri from the Native Americans to the Germans, had exhibits on how people made their living: tourism, mining, mills, agriculture, building, and so much more. The museum is composed of two parts: Civil War Missouri and the Soldiers' and Sailors' Memorial Hall, AKA "history hall."

We learned how some Missourians were Confederate and some were Union. They spent more time protecting themselves from each other than they did aggressively fighting the war. The Missourians were in a border war with Kansas. In 1883 Order No. 11 was decreed forcing residents from a number of Missouri counties to move without taking their belongings.

When we finally finished with the museum, we chose to do a self-guided tour.

Looking up through murals to the Rotunda

Below is the Great Seal of Missouri designed in 1822 by Judge Robert Wells. The Latin motto near the bottom translates to "Let the welfare of the people be the supreme law."

Great Seal of Missouri

Ceiling detail

Staircase

Ceiling over the law library

House gallery.

The doors to the House were locked, but it looked like a beautiful room. We heard voices down the corridor and thought we heard them say, "Welcome to the Hotel California..." Oh wait, those are song lyrics. The voices belonged to a tour group and the guide invited us to come into the House with the group. She had a key.

We just kept oohing and aahing over the gorgeous stained-glass windows. There were about nine of them in the room representing qualities for the house to think about when they were considering a bill.

House floor

On the second floor of the Missouri Capitol, 40 lunettes (half-moon-shaped paintings) illustrate Missouri's resources and history.

"Lewis Joins His Hunting Party" lunette

On the third floor, the Hall of Famous Missourians contains bronze busts of men and women who have made outstanding contributions in fields such as art, business, science, literature, entertainment and the military.

Bust of J. C. Penney

Pioneer Mother mural

Beautifully decorated interior of the Capitol

This is for you, Mom!

When we finally escaped the clutches of the Capitol, we made our way to the Lewis and Clark Monument outside. This monument pays tribute to the Corps of Discovery that scouted the Missouri River.

Lewis and Clark Monument

What a gorgeous day for a walk! We next passed by the Governor's Mansion. I don't know if it was the governor out walking his dog, but a very nice gentleman came out and talked to us with his new puppy. It could have been him. The Secret Service were out too.

The rest of our walk was up and down hills all around Jefferson City.

We walked past the historic Missouri State Penitentiary (1835). A Mustang car club was just arriving for a tour.

Missouri State Penitentiary

Mustang car club

Our walk took us through neighborhoods, a greenway and up and down hills.

Beautiful  homes!

Very nice neighborhood.

I think they were trying to kill us. One hill was very steep. I walked up part of it backwards, stopped to rest. What were they thinking? Gosh, maybe that we needed more exercise? I'm sure it was very good for us with all the sitting we've been doing while driving.

Toward the end of our walk, the walk instructions recommended Central Dairy for ice cream cones. We went in and indulged in two-scoop cones. What a treat at the end of almost 5 hours of walking and touring!

Central Dairy ice cream shop

At this point, we were late getting back to our rig to check out of the campground. I had called them earlier to let them know we were running late. They said it was okay.

We rushed back to the campground, hooked up, and took off for Branson, Missouri. I noticed as we were driving that the pick up was shimmying and shaking, not normal for our reliable Beast.

South of Springfield, Missouri, we stopped to have dinner at Lambert's, the home of "Throwed Rolls." They're not kidding. When you sit at your table and see the guy coming with the cart of fresh-baked rolls, you put your hand in the air and he throws a roll to you.

"Throwed rolls"

Lambert's is okay. To us, the meal had way too much starch. In addition to as many rolls as you could eat, they had "pass-arounds" - big bowls of fried okra, black-eyed peas, macaroni and tomatoes, fried potatoes with onions - that they would bring by your table and dish out as much as you wanted. The meal itself was huge. It was way too much food and not of a healthy kind.

After dinner, we bee-lined south to Hollister, Missouri, a couple of miles south of Branson, to the Escapees Turkey Creek RV Park where we would stay for three nights. The highway between Lambert's and Hollister had me hanging on for dear life. I couldn't believe the grades. Nowhere did it give a percentage like so many places in the West, but when you make it over the top of a hill and the bottom of the next hill looks almost straight down, that's when I get nervous. We would go from 40 at the top of the hill to 70 by the time we reached the bottom. And that was with all the shimmying and shaking the truck was doing. Scary!

When we found Turkey Creek RV Park it was dark. Thankfully there are some lights around so we could see. We were immediately greeted by the friendliest cat I had ever met. She went over to Bob to say hi first. She talked and talked to each of us. She loved to have her head patted and scratched. We don't know who she belonged to. A most unusual cat: a silver tabby with short hair but her tail was a soft, very long plume. Her tail was as long or longer than she was.

We opened the door to the rig with just the screen closed and she went right up on our top step to say hello to our cats. Sunnie was less than welcoming. He raised the fur on his back and snarled. Bowie could have cared less. After we were settled, she meowed outside our door for quite a while. She seemed very skinny, like she had been abandoned.

At the office the next day I asked who she belonged to. No one knew. That night was the only time we saw her. Others in the park also reported seeing her around and that she tried to get into people's RVs. They weren't very happy about it. One lady said the cat tried to go in the shower house with her.

So, another long day. Tomorrow we're meeting up with Bob's brother and sister-in-law, Tom and Rosemarie, in Branson.

Travel Bug out.