Panther City: Where the West Begins - Part 2, Sunday, December 30, 2018

Continued from Part 1...

After our exploration of the Fort Worth Water Gardens (see yesterday's blog), we met up with the rest of the Volksmarchers at the Sheraton and signed in for the walk. At 1:00 p.m., with a temperature of 41 degrees, a group of 18 of us headed out. 

Our first stop was the Chisholm Trail marker, very important in this region formerly known for its cattle drives. 

The Chisholm Trail mural, downtown Ft. Worth.

Cattle drives (this info is from a historical marker in downtown Fort Worth): 
After the Civil War, people in Texas realized that an estimated 3.5 million free-roaming cattle scattered throughout the state were a valuable asset. Between 1886 and 1887, over five million were rounded up to make the five-month, 800-mile trip through Texas to railheads in Kansas.

Fort Worth, the last "civilized" stop before Indian territory, became an important supply center. Driven by 10 to 12 cowboys, or vaqueros, herds forded the Trinity River and bedded down for a few days north of the river. in 1871, a reported 360,000(!) "beeves" were driven through Fort Worth along the Chisholm Trail (today's Commerce, Calhoun, Jones, and Grove Streets). 

The invention of barbed wire and the advancing railroad brought an end to the cattle drives, but with the stockyards and the growing number of area ranches in need of supplies, Fort Worth remained a "Cowtown."

Today we had a guided walk led by Helen Hull. Since we had never been to Fort Worth before, we enjoyed having a knowledgeable local take us to the downtown points of interest where we learned factoids we probably wouldn't have found on our own.

First, we once again enjoyed the Water Gardens, heading down into the Quiet Pool.

Our group going to the Quiet Pool.

Quiet Pool. See how high the walls are?
That's to keep the city noise out.

In the distance, we saw an imposing building. I asked Helen what that building was and she told me we were going to walk to it.

This imposing building dominates the skyline here.

As we approached the above building, Helen pointed out the old United States Post Office a block down the street. We were going there as well.

The U.S. Post Office in downtown Fort Worth.

A memorial sculpture stood to the left and we headed to it. The Texas Spring Palace, constructed in 1889, used to be in this location. It was a wooden, two-story, Oriental and Moorish design building used for an annual exhibition of Texas agricultural products. During its second exhibition in 1890, the building erupted into flames. People poured out of the building, many having to leap from the second story to escape. Alfred Hayne, a native of England, returned to the burning palace to help others who were trapped inside. Alfred was the only fatality of the fire. He died the next day of burn wounds suffered in the rescue effort. This monument, in memory of his heroism and courage, was dedicated in 1893 by the Women's Humane Association.

Spring Palace Monument
to Alfred S. Hayne.

The detail on the base of the monument.

A side view of the building we had been looking at showed Art Deco detail. This is the T & P (Texas and Pacific) Railroad Passenger Terminal. The railroads were a major part of Fort Worth's economy during its infancy.

Art Deco designs over the street-side door.

The T&P Passenger Terminal closed its doors for good in 1967. The building has been repurposed into apartments. 

We walked next door to the U.S. Post Office building (which was open) so we walked through the lobby to see the historic interior. The detailing features marble, bronze, and gold leaf. 

Post office lobby.

I LOVE this table!

The intricate design above the clerk's windows.

Helen let us know at the beginning of the walk that we would be crisscrossing the downtown streets. There is so much to see! 

Here are a number of photos of murals, art, cool buildings, and other stuff.

Zipper mural.

St. Patrick Cathedral.

St. Patrick's Church
(1888)

A. D. Marshall Public Safety & Courts Building
(1938)

Close-up of the facade of the above building.

Across the street from the Public Safety & Courts building is a very intriguing group of things to look at. It bore further investigation, so we headed over. 

The first thing that caught our eye was the unique Flatiron Building. This was known, in the early 1900s, as the tallest building in North Texas. It was erected in 1907 for the renowned Dr. Bacon Saunders, Dean of City Medical College; Chief Surgeon, Nine Railroads; acclaimed as a pioneer of medicine in Texas. 

The Flatiron Building was designed by the distinguished firm of Fort Worth architects, Sanguinet and Staats, of reinforced concrete over a steel frame. This Renaissance Revival structure was inspired by the wedge-shaped Flatiron Building in New York. 

Flatiron Building in Fort Worth.

Now, here's a very cool part of this walk: Panther City. I never knew this before today. Wouldn't you know, it all got started with a newspaper article? Here's how this particular nickname came to be.

A newspaper story reported that Fort Worth was such a dull and drowsy place that a panther was seen sleeping in the city on the steps by the courthouse. In their initial endeavors at establishing this city's identity, the nickname Panther City was adopted for Fort Worth. The name was catchy and the local newspaper, the Fort Worth Democrat, added a drawing of a panther to its masthead.

In addition, live cubs were housed at the City Fire Hall and at many of the local businesses. At one of the community parades in Dallas (at that time a small town east of Fort Worth), the representatives of Fort Worth carried panther cubs on their floats in representation of "The city where the West begins."

The Panther City Fountain (2002).

Another walker and another view of the panther.

Up-close view of panthers (?) on Flatiron Building.

Cool old hat store sign.

Interesting design.

I love these old clocks.

Concrete owl detail on a building.

People in our group told stories of the major damage sustained by the building below during a tornado a number of years ago. Windows were blown out around the building and people inside had to shelter in the interior. An accounting firm lost thousands of paper records, some of which were found up to 60 miles away. Now the building's windows are reinforced with bars. 

At the north end of downtown is the Tarrant County Courthouse. We could not look inside because it's closed on Sunday. It sits atop a hill overlooking the Trinity River.

Tarrant County Courthouse.

The courthouse pediment and clock tower.

We then made our way back into the heart of Sundance Square. According to Wikipedia, "Sundance Square is the name of a 35-block commercial, residential, entertainment, and retail district in downtown Fort Worth, Texas. Named after the Sundance Kid in Western folklore, it is a popular place for nightlife and entertainment..."

Suit of armor atop Haltom's jewelry store.

Haltom's clock.

The city's Christmas tree.

Haltom's jewelry store.

Topiary horse and rider.

Fort Worth Convention Center

John F. Kennedy Memorial.

At this point, those who were only walking 6k headed back to the Sheraton. The rest of us continued on to finish a 10k walk.

Bass Performance Hall with its
bas relief angels. Gorgeous.

Front view of an angel.

Fire Station No. 1.

Police cars carry the theme,
"Where the West Begins."

Our walk concluded at the Intermodal Transportation Center served by Amtrak, Greyhound, Enterprise Rent-a-Car, and the TRE (Trinity Railway Express).

There's a panther on the building.

Intermodal Transportation Center.

A restored streetcar on display.

The Santa Fe Depot below was built in 1899 in the Beaux Arts style, featuring native stone banding. When intact, the north windows of painted glass depicted travel from Pony Express to steam locomotives. Visitors here included Presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt, Dwight D. Eisenhower, and Lyndon B. Johnson.

The Depot was used by six railroad companies. As of 1970, Santa Fe served Texas with greater trackage than any other railroad, 5,102 miles. It is now a Texas Historic Landmark. The building now houses an events center. A wedding was taking place there today so we couldn't go inside.

Santa Fe Depot.

Santa Fe Depot (street side).

As you can probably tell by the length of this blog, we were quite enamored with Fort Worth. Thank you to Helen Hull for taking us around and showing us the fascinating pieces of history that make this town unique. Well done. Brava!

A Walk Around Waco - Thurs., Sept. 27, 2018

The Chisholm Trail, a suspension bridge, sculptures, murals, the Dr Pepper Museum, and Baylor University were all parts of the 10k walk I did in Waco, Texas, today. Bob is in classes for two days in Temple, Texas, and I traveled north with him. 

We left San Antonio at 6:00 a.m. Just before Buda, I-35 came to a halt. We got off at the next off ramp and made it through the backup in about 20 minutes. There was a wreck blocking two of the three lanes on I-35.

Bob's classes started at 10:00 a.m. We arrived early, parked in the Hilton Garden Inn parking lot, and both took a nap. Bob slept about 15 minutes, and I slept 1-1/2 hours. 

When I woke up, I drove to Waco, Texas, ate lunch, and started my walk at the Hilton downtown. Right across the street from the Hilton are a number of sculptures depicting cowboys driving cattle on The Texas Chisholm Trail.

"Trail Boss & Longhorn,"
by Robert Summers, sculptor

"Vaquero & Longhorn,"
by Robert Summers, sculptor

A long trail of longhorns along the street.

From the park with the sculptures, the walk went downstairs to the Brazos River. I had great views of the Waco Suspension Bridge.

In 1866, The Waco Bridge Company was granted a 25-year charter to build a toll bridge here. The charter guaranteed that no other bridge or ferry could be built within five miles. Construction was finished in 1870. It was the first bridge across the Brazos River and, at that time, the longest (475 ft.) single-span suspension bridge in the world. Users of the bridge included wagons, cattle herds, and pedestrians. In 1889, the bridge was bought by McLennan County and made a free public thoroughfare. It is a Texas Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

Waco Suspension Bridge over the Brazos River.

Waco Suspension Bridge

Wildlife viewing by the river:

Duck parade

Muscovy duck (established feral)

From the river, the walk made its way into downtown. I passed by St. Francis Church on the Brazos.

St. Francis Church on the Brazos

The beautiful interior of the church.

More of the church's interior.

A nice thank you for visiting the church.

I continued walking into downtown. A building as beautiful as some of the state capitols we've seen came into sight. It is the McLennan County Courthouse (their fourth). 

McLennan County Courthouse

McLennan County Courthouse

Entry to the courthouse.

The first courthouse, a two-story log building, was outgrown in five years. In 1856, a second courthouse was built out of brick. However, due to problems with the structure, including two fatalities due to faulty second-floor doors, a new structure was needed. By the mid-1870s, a new courthouse and jail were constructed. By 1900, it again became too small and a bigger courthouse was designed by James Riely Gordon. This courthouse was built during the peak of central Texas cotton wealth. It is a magnificent Renaissance Revival design crowned with statues of eagles as well as Themis, Justitia, and Liberty. Materials used in construction were steel, limestone, concrete, and marble, with Texas red granite in the rusticated base.

Downtown had unique-to-Waco design elements, such as:

Cute mural.

District maps on utility boxes.

An awesome gate.

All things Dr Pepper (at the museum).

First Baptist Church (gorgeous design!).

Waco's version of "The Thinker."

There was so much to see on this walk, I had to decide what to do, and how much time to spend doing it. For example, I love Dr Pepper and I dedicated an hour to the Dr Pepper Museum & Free Enterprise Institute which not only had all things Dr Pepper, but also had many popular soft drinks represented. (If you're wondering why I am not putting a period after the Dr. in Dr Pepper, it is because the board decided to drop the period. I know, it drives me crazy, too!)

Dr Pepper Museum photos:

1950s Chevrolet delivery truck.

Geoffrey Holder

Display of root beers.

Dr Pepper Snapple Group (DPSG) products.

Old advertising.

Free Enterprise Institute

Meyer Dumore Junior Bottle Washer

Beautiful old seltzer bottles, circa 1930s.

Definitely make time to visit this museum if you're in Waco. This is the home of the nation's oldest major soft drink. You will learn some surprising things. There is a 1950s soda fountain there. I had an amazing Dr Pepper float. The Liquid Laboratory has live shows throughout the day. I made it to the last show of the day at 1:30 p.m. An intern talked about the history of soda, different flavors that were in favor throughout history, and flavor experiments. How does cranberry-jalapeno soda sound? You could sample seltzer water, carbonated water, and one of their concoctions that sounded, shall we say, interesting.
The walk also took us past Magnolia Market. No, I did not see Chip and JoAnna Gaines. Instructions on the walk sheet said: "There is a bakery that usually has a long line that may block the area. The wait to get into the market itself is a different line and usually not very long if you'd like to stop in and look around." I decided not to do this today because my time was limited.

The Silos at Magnolia Market

Magnolia Market

The walk then went back down to the Brazos River for a short distance to the Texas Ranger Museum. This museum is also on my bucket list. Bob and I will come back to check this out another time. There are some nice sculptures in front of the museum

Major George B. Erath -
Father of Waco, Champion of Texas

"Texas Ranger," by Don Hunt, sculptor

Another museum on the route that Bob would probably enjoy was the Texas Sports Hall of Fame.

Next destination: Baylor University. The walk went through a good portion of the school. The walk directions need to be updated, though. It said to continue to a Giant Chess Board, look at the board and then continue. However, the Giant Chess Board is no longer there. Here are some pictures of Baylor University.

Waco Creek

Turtles.

Sailboat on Waco Creek.

View of campus from University Parks Drive.

Mayborn Museum Complex

The Mayborn Museum Complex features a natural science and cultural history museum focusing on Central Texas with walk-in dioramas including one on the Waco Mammoth Site, and exploration stations for geology, paleontology, archaeology, and natural history.

I walked around the Mayborn Museum and headed across the Brazos River on a new pedestrian bridge to beautiful McLane Stadium. 

Sheila and Walter Umphrey Bridge to McLane Stadium

Looks like a game may be coming up...lots of
tents set up around the stadium

Heisman Trophy winner
Robert Griffin III

Quote from Robert Griffin III.

Paddleboarders on the Brazos River.

McLane Stadium, Baylor University.

The walk finished along the Brazos River. 

Finally, some shade!

Waco Suspension Bridge

More of the cattle drive sculpture.

I was hot, tired, hungry, sweaty, and ready to be done with this walk. Don't get me wrong, this is a wonderful Volksmarch, but I started walking too late on a hot, muggy day. Next time I do this walk, I'll make it a point to start at 7:00 a.m., not noon.

Bob's class was supposed to let out at 5:00 p.m. I still had a little time left and one more place in Waco I wanted to visit: Waco Mammoth National Monument. It was five miles from where I was downtown. I zipped over there. When I got there, I found out my Senior National Park Pass was only good for parking and the Visitor Center. If I wanted to see the mammoth dig site, it would be $5 for a tour. Okay, I did want to see it, so I forked over five bucks. The next tour left in ten minutes.

A 250-year-old live oak.

The dig site.

The mammoths at this location are not woolly mammoths, they are Columbian mammoths. What's very interesting is that the team here unearthed a nursery pit filled with female and baby mammoths. A total of 24 mammoths have been found so far and they expect to find more. Studying the mammoths, it looks like they may have been gathering at a watering hole when a flash flood trapped them in deep mud. The pit is inside an air-conditioned building which helps protect the fragile bones, keeps poachers out, and makes for a good work environment for the archeologists.

The wall painting is not as big as an actual
Columbian mammoth.

Columbian mammoths are the biggest.

The inside of the building and the pit.

I had to leave before the Park Ranger stopped talking so I could pick up Bob after his class. 

With Bob in the car, we went back to check into our hotel in Waco, and then we went out to dinner at Buzzard Billy's, overlooking the Brazos River.

Bob outside Buzzard Billy's.

Buzzard Billy's has indoor and outdoor seating.

Beautifully lit bridges next to the restaurant.

After dinner, we walked over to McLane Stadium (about a mile round-trip).

It looks pretty at night.

Robert Griffin III

Sheila and Walter Umphrey Bridge

Then it was time to go back to the motel and lights out.