Sunset, Kailua-Kona, The Big Island, Hawaii, March 11, 2024

Sunset, Kailua-Kona, The Big Island, Hawaii, March 11, 2024
Sunset, Kailua-Kona, The Big Island, Hawaii, March 11, 2024

Thursday, February 20, 2020

Part 1 - The Cities of White (Merida) and Gold (Izamal) Tour - Thursday, February 20, 2020

Last night, we had some rough water on our way from Cozumel to Progreso, Mexico. I woke up at 3:15 a.m. and my stomach was queasy. Thankfully, it settled down and I was able to go back to sleep.

Peri wasn't feeling well in the morning and decided not to go on our tour to the Cities of White and Gold. I left the ship at 10:15 a.m. to meet our greeter at 10:30 a.m. A group of 26 was assembled in the waiting area. We walked through the marketplace at the end of the pier on our way to the air-conditioned bus.

Luis, our tour guide for the day, welcomed us onto the bus and gave us our itinerary. When we left the pier area, we had three miles of causeway to cross to get to Progreso, Mexico, the closest town to our ship. Luis explained the large concrete blocks along the route. After Hurricane Harvey, they had to rebuild the causeway with heavy materials so the roadway to the docks would be protected. 

In the photo below, our ship, the Carnival Dream, is on the right. Our ship is backed up to the dock.

Carnival Dream on the right.
Welcome sign at the
Marketplace by the pier.
A cool sculpture/bench/photo op.
Pelicanos along the causeway.
Looking back at the ships from the causeway.
[Note the iguana on the
top left of the big blocks!]
Big concrete blocks along the length of the
causeway protect the road from rough waters.
What we learned today:

The Yucatan is a state in Mexico. Merida (pronounced merry-DAH) is the capital of Yucatan. Residents are Mayan and Mayan is their main language. Spanish is their second language. When the Aztecs moved north, they changed their name to Mayan. 

The religion of Yucatan is Catholic. According to our guide, "everyone is Catholic." Each neighborhood has its own catholic church and the people who attend each church are like family.

Cozumel is in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. There is a highway on which you can drive from Merida (the capital of Yucatan) to Cozumel. It takes about four hours. He asked us if we wanted to go there today (tongue in cheek, of course, we had a ship to catch). 

Beef and produce are not raised/grown on the Yucatan Peninsula. The ground is hard rock which is not conducive to growing grasses for cattle or for produce. They import their meat and produce. Papaya and other fruit trees grow in some people's yards. We also saw a field of agave for making tequila.

Progreso is the little town connected by a causeway to the port. There are shuttle buses that run between the ships and Progreso. At the end of the causeway, is a beautiful beach. Our driver told us the water is pretty shallow out along the causeway, only 30' deep. 
Pretty Progreso Mexico beach.
Small Progreso park (photo taken from the bus). 

From Progreso, it was about a 35-minute drive to Merida. On the drive, we learned that a new bullfighting arena just opened. It would cost about $25 American to see a bullfight. 

Luis told us that speed limit signs are just decoration. He says people do not get stopped for speeding. But if you get stopped for driving under the influence, you forfeit your driver's license and go to jail. He said it's very hard to get your driver's license back and you can't leave jail without it. Do not drink and drive in Yucatan!

Merida is called the City of White because many houses and buildings are painted white. In places, the sidewalk is painted white as well. Luis told us that Merida is very proud of its clean city with little crime. The capital has many of the same businesses as the U.S.: Costco, Olive Garden, Dairy Queen, the list went on and on. 

Here are photos of Merida:



Mayan Museum
Monument
Jaguar at the bottom of this.

The photo above and the one below are carvings on a historical monument on a roundabout. We did not get to exit the bus and look at it up close. I was taking photos from the opposite side of the bus and people's heads and the curtains from the other side were in the way. I did the best I could.


A historical monument in the
center of a roundabout.
Horse-drawn carriages in Merida by the Cathedral.
Hotel building, maybe?
Beautiful blossoms.
Old buildings in the capital of Merida.
I love the old architecture around town.
Palacio Municipal (like a City Hall).
Palacio Municipal.
Merida sign in the Zocalo de Merida
(tree-lined park, central plaza).
I love this seating in the park/plaza!

The Plaza de la Independencia (AKA Zocalo de Merida) was our only stop in Merida. Our bus driver told us to leave everything except cameras on the bus. We found out why when we were approached by a child selling pretty peacock purses, and others trying to sell their homemade items. Also, there were women beggars holding cups sitting on the floor at the entrance to the cathedral

From the bus, we walked across the plaza to the Merida Cathedral (Catedral de Merida - San Ildefonso), the oldest cathedral in the Americas (built between 1561 and 1598). 

[NOTE: Many of the historical facts about the church are from locogringo.com blog and our tour guide, Luis.] This church was built on the site of an ancient Mayan temple, and cut stones from that temple were used to build this cathedral. The stones were intentionally reversed during construction to hide the Mayan markings on them.

The cathedral was awesome, quite a historical edifice. The original cathedral was a combination of three architectural styles: Renaissance exterior, Baroque alter (which was destroyed), and Moorish stonework ceilings. We had ten minutes to go inside and look around. Below are photos of the cathedral.

Catedral de Merida - San Ildefonso.
The main door of the Cathedral.

The large wooden cathedral door is only opened on special occasions like New Year's Eve, for the visit of a Pope, or for the start of the Catholic New Year.

Close-up of the door (or "What
knockers!" if you're into
"Young Frankenstein.)
Cristo de la Unidad (Christ of Unity).

The cross of Cristo de la Unidad is made of mahogany and is 40' tall with a 23' carving of Jesus on the cross. It is a symbol of the reconciliation between those of Spanish and Mayan heritage.

Make sure to look up at the Moorish vaulted ceilings and center stained glass window designed by architect Juan Miguel Aguero. They are very different from plaster ceilings found in other Spanish churches in the region. 

Moorish vaulted ceilings in the cathedral.
Center stained-glass window.
 A closer photo of Cristo de la Unidad.
A side altar in the cathedral.

Once outside the cathedral, we learned about the Governor's Palace kitty-corner from the cathedral on the plaza. There is a balcony facing the square from which the governor can address the masses in the plaza. He rings the bell before he speaks.
Palacia de Gobierno del Estado de Yucatan
(Governor's Palace).
Mexican state seal and bell on
the Governor's Palace in Merida.

Next door to the cathedral is the Pasaje de la Revolucion. It is a small side street usually used as an art space. There was no art in there while we were here. Reviews also say it is a good place to take refuge in a downpour.

Pasaje de la Revolucion.
Ateneo Peninsular

The Ateneo Peninsular was the city's episcopal palace (residence of the bishops) until 1915. It was then confiscated by the army and heavily renovated to its current appearance. It now houses a contemporary art museum that is temporarily closed.

I asked our tour guide about a number of ladies wearing white who were exiting the church thinking maybe there was a wedding or a communion. He said white is a symbol of peace. These ladies wearing white to church means they feel at peace in the cathedral.


From Merida, we traveled another 45 minutes by bus to Izamal. There wasn't much to see along the way. We made one stop at a gas station so we could use the facilities. I was the first one off the bus and a gentleman stopped me and told me it cost money to use the bathroom. I told him I didn't have any and I would go back to the bus and get some when I was done. I don't think he was too happy with me, but I was on a mission and blew on by him. When I went back out to the tour bus, I told our tour guide that the guy outside wanted money to use the toilets. Luis said he would take care of it and we watched him negotiate for and pay the price for all of us to use the bathroom.  

When we reached Izamal, on the way into town, our guide pointed out a Wrangler jean factory that employs a number of local people. We also passed a new baseball stadium and a middle or high school that was just letting out for the day. The kids looked like miniature Mayan warriors. It was amazing how much they looked like photos of Mayans from history books we had in school when we were kids.

Our tour bus.
Izamal's new baseball stadium. 
To be continued in Part 2...

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