What in Blue Blazes Is this Place? - Tuesday, June 16, 2020

For years, the four-mile Sunday Gulch (Loop) Trail that starts at Sylvan Lake in the Black Hills of South Dakota has been on my hiking bucket list. When we were at Sylvan Lake in 2012, we saw the Sunday Gulch Trailhead, read the warnings, and hiked a short distance DOWN the trail. DOWN being the operative word for the counter-clockwise start of this trail. 

Within a short distance of going down steep rock steps, we encountered a river flowing across the trail. We were not prepared for a difficult hike of this magnitude. Basically, the counter-clockwise beginning of this trail takes you down a waterfall on very steep rock steps or sloped boulders. An iron railing is provided for you to clutch as you go down (or up) as the case may be. This hike is for another time, we said. So, in 2020 we decided to go before we got too old and decrepit to do it. 

After much worrying about the best way to approach the trail, I read many trail reviews of this beastly hike. Most people said to be sure to do the trail clockwise and gave their reasons. Very few said to do it counter-clockwise.

Today we are hiking Sunday Gulch prepared with water, snacks, suntan lotion, a hand towel, a hiking pole, hiking boots, water shoes, and an adventurous attitude. When we arrived at Sylvan Lake and the trailhead parking lot, I saw a young lady walking by and I chanced to ask her if she had ever hiked the Sunday Gulch Trail. She replied that she has done it a number of times. 

I asked her opinion about going in the clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. Without hesitation, she said counter-clockwise and explained that if you go counter-clockwise, you will go DOWN the steep steps and boulders early in the hike. You can hang onto the railings and lower yourself down if you need to. If you do the trail in the clockwise direction, at the end of the hike, you will have to pull yourself UP using the railings to help you get up the steps and boulders. It sounded logical to me. I'd much rather use gravity and railings to the best advantage! A counter-clockwise hike is for us.

At 9:00 a.m., we hiked along the left side of Sylvan Lake (as you face the gift store). From there, we turned left at the dam and made an immediate right through the rock tunnel and down to the Sunday Gulch Trailhead. We went straight at the trailhead sign to go counter-clockwise around the loop. 

It immediately became apparent that this trail would be a tough go. I was super glad I brought one hiking pole. It gave me stability. Bob helped me up and down a few rocks here and there. The railings were helpful in so many places. 

The trail along the left side of Sylvan Lake.

Bob starting down into the gulch.

In the photo below, you can see how quickly the trail drops. Look at the railing in the bottom right of the photo. That's where we went down!

Going down?

The waterfall was minimal today and we didn't get our feet wet. I was ready with water shoes in the backpack!

The waterfall was small.

In the bottom center of this photo is
a line of handrails, but they are hard to see!

More steep steps into the gulch.

The handrails got lots of use.

I found a railing I could slide on. Not!

Fantastic rock scenery.

Other parts of the trail
look like this.

Once we made it down the initial steep descent, we went along the bottom of the gulch. At times, there were more rocks to navigate with handrails. We followed a stream for a while. It was cool and the little cascades were melodious. 

Of course, the scenery was stunning. We saw rock spires and long views across the Black Hills. It was worth every step we took.

Rock spire views between the trees.

A wild rose attracts attention.

See Bob down there?
We had more downhill! 

.

Bob leading the way. 

I'm hugging the handrails!

When do we start going up??

Finally, a short section
of flat trail!

A view across the gulch.

I should mention that the trail is marked by blue blazes. As long as we followed those markers, we would not get lost. However, there were a couple of places on the trail going counter-clockwise that we did not see the blue blazes. After a minute of searching, we usually found the continuation of the trail. 

Once you go down into a canyon, you need to go up to retrieve your car. We found that the waterfall area and gulch were nice and cool. However, by the time we started climbing out of the canyon on a switchback trail, the sun had arrived in full force. In addition to the sun heating us quickly, the elevation caused shortness of breath in us San Antonio flatlanders. I was having to stop and gasp for oxygen about every 20 feet. We tried to find shade in which to catch our breath. It wasn't always available. All was not horrible climbing out, though, we had breath-taking scenery.

The wildflowers were in bloom, too. I will try to identify them.

Sticky geranium.

Rocky trail climbing out.

Expansive views.

Granite rock formations.

Where in blue blazes are the
blue blaze trail markers?

Rock climbers. (See next two photos
to see how high they are.)

You're getting a better idea
of how high they are.

In the photo below, the two climbers are on top of the big rock on the right!

Two rock climbers are on top of
the big rock on the right!

We are almost done. Now we have
about one-half mile to the car.

Walking to the car, we had a great sense of accomplishment. Our conversation drifted to what a hard climb it was coming out of the canyon for our last 1-1/2 miles. We couldn't imagine doing this hike clockwise. That would mean that the last 1/2- to 3/4- miles would be steep uphill, hauling yourself up all those stairs and rocks. Bob and I are solidly in the counter-clockwise hikers' camp!

A word of caution if you do this hike. Be prepared for the conditions. You never know when a cold front will blow in and cause hypothermia. Come prepared for cold weather. Take plenty of water (more than you think you'll need...you're at a high elevation and the air is dry), take snacks in case you bonk (get too tired to climb out), know your limitations, don't take your kids unless you know their tolerance for a hard hike, wear proper footwear, wear sunscreen because the air is thinner at high elevations and the sun will seem stronger, research the trail, don't disturb rock climbers' gear, and take a camera for the awesome pictures you will compose. Most of all, have fun. Rest whenever you need to. This isn't a marathon. It's supposed to connect you with nature. 

We are so happy we did this hike, but don't think we need a repeat performance. There are so many other places to explore.

Travel Bug and Bob out.

A Fun-filled, Five-part Day - Sunday, June 14, 2020

The Black Hills are so beautiful it's easy to try to see everything in one day. But if you did that, you'd miss out on so much! Today, we packed in five different activities. We had plenty of time for each one, and it didn't get dark on us. We have four more days to hike and do the other activities we planned.

1. The Custer Skywalk Nature Trail,
2. A walk around downtown Custer, South Dakota,
3. Sylvan Lake, 
4. Needles Highway, and
5. Custer State Park Wildlife Loop.

We were able to pack so much into one day because we stayed at Fort Welikit Family Campground, one mile north of Custer City (which is the area where we wanted to spend most of our time while we're here).

Custer Skywalk Nature Trail: Bob and I were exploring the area around the Chamber of Commerce/Visitor Center one block off of the main drag (Hwy 16) in Custer. The painted animals you'll find in Custer are bison and the Visitor Center has one in front of the entrance. In addition, someone put sunglasses on the General Custer sculpture there. It made the sculpture look like a cool dude.

General Custer.

The Visitor Center was closed, so we walked to the park across the street. Bob was interested in the George S. Mickelson Trail (rails to trails path). There is a user fee of $15 for an annual pass or $4 per day. Bob bought the annual pass since he planned to ride a lot.

Bob buying Rails to Trails pass. 

While we were looking at the bike trail information, we noticed a trail going up the hill a few feet away. It said "Custer Skywalk Nature Trail." We're always up for a good hike, especially since this one has the reward of an observation deck at the top.

There was contemporary artwork of General George Custer and Chief Sitting Bull at the entrance to the trail.

Chief Sitting Bull.

General Custer.

At the start of the walk is a sign explaining the trail system, how many stairs to expect, the history of the park, and what we would see from the observation deck. Oh, boy! We were like kids in a candy store. We had been cooped up in the truck driving three very long days from San Antonio to Custer, South Dakota. It was time to stretch our legs.

 

Custer Skywalk Nature Trail start point. 

We did the Skywalk Trail.

Our start point is on the far right
where it says, "You are here."

The sign said there are a lot of steps (245 by their count, which I will happily go by because I don't want to count them!). Okay, getting started up the hill was tough. I admit I have been a couch potato at home for the past few months. after huffing and puffing and whining a little, I got caught up in the natural beauty of the place. Undaunted, we kept going up. Verdant forests of ponderosa pine with ancient, jagged rock formations kept us interested in continuing up the hill. 

These rocks don't roll. 

Jagged dramatic rocks.

Lush forests.

Heading to Sunrise Point.

Views await!

Bob on the Observation Deck.

Looking out over Custer City.

Black Hills granite scenery.

Proof I made it up here, still breathing.

Well, then, going down should be much easier than coming up, right? 

It was a whole lot faster!

A walk around downtown Custer, South Dakota: After the Custer Skywalk Nature Trail, we walked through downtown Custer, bought some postcards, and looked at the sights. The bakery has a clever sign and logo. 

"You'll love our buns."

A great souvenir photo in front
of the Custer mural.

An art store called "The Peanut Gallery"
has Mona Lisa eating peanuts.

The art gallery building
is a work of art in itself!

Pizza Works is where
we had pizza last night.

I sense a theme here.

We'll be off to Crazy Horse tomorrow.

The Custer sign on top of the hill is lit
up at night with bright white lights.

Sylvan Lake: When we were in the Black Hills in 2012, we fell in love with Sylvan Lake. Today, we went back since it was six miles from our campground. It was pretty crowded. Of course, the day was quite warm and what better place to cool off than a lake? 

There are now signs that if you are caught jumping off the rocks into the lake, you will receive a $100 fine. The sign did not deter people from jumping off the rocks. Bob was tempted. He loves jumping off of rocks into the water, but he hasn't done it here.

Instead, we did the one-mile loop hike around the lake. This lake was formed by a dam. Still, it is lovely. Once we got past the picnicking and swimming areas, we lost most of the crowds and had a great hike. Some scrambling over rocks was required. 

A very flat section of the trail. 

Kayakers, swimmers, fisherpeople,
picnickers, and hikers were out in force today!

A very cool tunnel through
the rock by the dam.

Views are great on this hike.

Wild iris.

Outstanding rock formations.

I found this handsome guy on the trail!

This trail is easy to follow. 

A sentimental memorial bench.
I love the quote!

Wow!

And, since we were in the neighborhood, we drove on the Needles Highway to see the rock formations. Besides the majestic rocks, the narrow tunnels are a big attraction on this highway. The tunnels were built in the 1930s and, along with the highway, showcased the scenery. When you come out of one of the tunnels going in the correct direction, you have a tunnel-framed view of Mt. Rushmore!

It's always exciting to take a big F350 through the tunnels. They are 8'-9' wide  It is a must to pull in your big side mirrors! We could not believe the number of people driving Needles Highway in small rental RVs. We did not stick around to see if they tried to drive through the tunnels. The other exciting feature of the Needles Highway is that the roads are two-way, narrow, with drop-offs, and only a few turn-outs. We don't understand why the highway isn't one-way. It would feel a lot safer!

The needles rock formations.

Cathedral Spires.

One of the tunnels.

From the Needles Highway, it is easy to get on the Custer Wildlife Loop Road. Be forewarned, to go into Custer State Park you must pay $20 per car/$10 per motorcycle. The window sticker is good for up to seven days. If you are driving through on Hwy. 16A without stopping, tell the ranger. They allow you to go through without paying.

We love to go on the loop road; there are always animals out and about. You never know which animals you will see. Today, we saw lots of bison. In fact, the bison were on both sides of the road and in the middle of the road. They were blocking traffic. 

Ahead of us was a couple on a motorcycle and they weren't about to go through a herd of bison unprotected. Since no one was coming from the other direction (they were blocked too), Bob slowly passed the motorcyclists and told them we would clear the road.

We moved forward slowly and a Class B Cruise America rental RV moved forward from the other direction. What is a big bull bison standing in the middle of the road going to do with those two vehicles heading for him slowly? Our F350 has a cowcatcher on it, but today we called it a "buffalo bar." The big male slowly moved off the road. A little calf was near our front right "buffalo bar." I kept a close eye on it to make sure it didn't dart in front of us. It turned on its heels and ran off the road. Problem solved. Traffic moved again. I did not get any photos of the bison. 

Photos follow of the rest of our trip on the Wildlife Loop Road...

Prairie dogs.

Expansive views.

Grasslands - great food for the animals!

Red rock cliffs.

Baby burros!!

So cute.

Here's mama.

But wait, there are more!

Another little one. Just adorable.

And here's what it REALLY looks like!
Lots of people. I did not have them to myself.

And another mama and baby.

We drove on a little farther and found the pronghorns.

The pronghorn were hanging out near the buffalo corrals. Once a year, there is a buffalo roundup to cull the herds. Here is a sign that tells about it. 

So now you know what a day with Susan and Bob looks like. I hope you enjoyed your tour of the area around Custer City, South Dakota. 

Tomorrow, we have tickets to Crazy Horse Memorial. Travel Bug out.