For years, the four-mile Sunday Gulch (Loop) Trail that starts at Sylvan Lake in the Black Hills of South Dakota has been on my hiking bucket list. When we were at Sylvan Lake in 2012, we saw the Sunday Gulch Trailhead, read the warnings, and hiked a short distance DOWN the trail. DOWN being the operative word for the counter-clockwise start of this trail.
Within a short distance of going down steep rock steps, we encountered a river flowing across the trail. We were not prepared for a difficult hike of this magnitude. Basically, the counter-clockwise beginning of this trail takes you down a waterfall on very steep rock steps or sloped boulders. An iron railing is provided for you to clutch as you go down (or up) as the case may be. This hike is for another time, we said. So, in 2020 we decided to go before we got too old and decrepit to do it.
After much worrying about the best way to approach the trail, I read many trail reviews of this beastly hike. Most people said to be sure to do the trail clockwise and gave their reasons. Very few said to do it counter-clockwise.
Today we are hiking Sunday Gulch prepared with water, snacks, suntan lotion, a hand towel, a hiking pole, hiking boots, water shoes, and an adventurous attitude. When we arrived at Sylvan Lake and the trailhead parking lot, I saw a young lady walking by and I chanced to ask her if she had ever hiked the Sunday Gulch Trail. She replied that she has done it a number of times.
I asked her opinion about going in the clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. Without hesitation, she said counter-clockwise and explained that if you go counter-clockwise, you will go DOWN the steep steps and boulders early in the hike. You can hang onto the railings and lower yourself down if you need to. If you do the trail in the clockwise direction, at the end of the hike, you will have to pull yourself UP using the railings to help you get up the steps and boulders. It sounded logical to me. I'd much rather use gravity and railings to the best advantage! A counter-clockwise hike is for us.
At 9:00 a.m., we hiked along the left side of Sylvan Lake (as you face the gift store). From there, we turned left at the dam and made an immediate right through the rock tunnel and down to the Sunday Gulch Trailhead. We went straight at the trailhead sign to go counter-clockwise around the loop.
It immediately became apparent that this trail would be a tough go. I was super glad I brought one hiking pole. It gave me stability. Bob helped me up and down a few rocks here and there. The railings were helpful in so many places.
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The trail along the left side of Sylvan Lake.
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| Bob starting down into the gulch. |
In the photo below, you can see how quickly the trail drops. Look at the railing in the bottom right of the photo. That's where we went down! |
| Going down? |
The waterfall was minimal today and we didn't get our feet wet. I was ready with water shoes in the backpack! |
| The waterfall was small. |
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In the bottom center of this photo is
a line of handrails, but they are hard to see!
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More steep steps into the gulch.
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| The handrails got lots of use. |
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I found a railing I could slide on. Not!
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| Fantastic rock scenery. |
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Other parts of the trail
look like this.
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Once we made it down the initial steep descent, we went along the bottom of the gulch. At times, there were more rocks to navigate with handrails. We followed a stream for a while. It was cool and the little cascades were melodious.
Of course, the scenery was stunning. We saw rock spires and long views across the Black Hills. It was worth every step we took.
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| Rock spire views between the trees. |
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| A wild rose attracts attention. |
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See Bob down there?
We had more downhill!
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Bob leading the way.
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I'm hugging the handrails!
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When do we start going up??
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Finally, a short section
of flat trail! |
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| A view across the gulch. |
I should mention that the trail is marked by
blue blazes. As long as we followed those markers, we would not get lost. However, there were a couple of places on the trail going counter-clockwise that we did not see the blue blazes. After a minute of searching, we usually found the continuation of the trail.
Once you go down into a canyon, you need to go up to retrieve your car. We found that the waterfall area and gulch were nice and cool. However, by the time we started climbing out of the canyon on a switchback trail, the sun had arrived in full force. In addition to the sun heating us quickly, the elevation caused shortness of breath in us San Antonio flatlanders. I was having to stop and gasp for oxygen about every 20 feet. We tried to find shade in which to catch our breath. It wasn't always available. All was not horrible climbing out, though, we had breath-taking scenery.
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Two rock climbers are on top of
the big rock on the right! |
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We are almost done. Now we have
about one-half mile to the car. |
Walking to the car, we had a great sense of accomplishment. Our conversation drifted to what a hard climb it was coming out of the canyon for our last 1-1/2 miles. We couldn't imagine doing this hike clockwise. That would mean that the last 1/2- to 3/4- miles would be steep uphill, hauling yourself up all those stairs and rocks. Bob and I are solidly in the counter-clockwise hikers' camp!
A word of caution if you do this hike. Be prepared for the conditions. You never know when a cold front will blow in and cause hypothermia. Come prepared for cold weather. Take plenty of water (more than you think you'll need...you're at a high elevation and the air is dry), take snacks in case you bonk (get too tired to climb out), know your limitations, don't take your kids unless you know their tolerance for a hard hike, wear proper footwear, wear sunscreen because the air is thinner at high elevations and the sun will seem stronger, research the trail, don't disturb rock climbers' gear, and take a camera for the awesome pictures you will compose. Most of all, have fun. Rest whenever you need to. This isn't a marathon. It's supposed to connect you with nature.
We are so happy we did this hike, but don't think we need a repeat performance. There are so many other places to explore.
Travel Bug and Bob out.
Great trail. I was walking it with you all the way due to the fantastic photos and descriptions. Definitely best to walk counterclockwise. I would have had issues trying to pull myself up the trail at the end if done clockwise - too tired after the hike to lift my feet up the proper distance without stumbling! Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the kind words. I think if we had done the trail clockwise, I would have sat down and cried when I saw what we had to go up at the end. But then I would have had to climb out because I wouldn't want to go back to the start the way we had come.
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