Sunrise, Sunset, Sunday - Oct. 11, 2015

Sunday morning, day three of our Volksmarch weekend, and we are up with the birds and coyotes. We were given the gate code to enter the state park early. We drove up, put in the code, and drove through. The car behind us made it through too. Our goal: to do as much of our hike as possible before the mountain bike racers came through and to do it in the coolest part of the day.

Driving up to the state park, we had a dramatic sunrise.

Wow!

Down in the canyon, we had to wait for the people manning the checkpoint to get in position. While we waited, we read the sign at the start of the trail stating the trial is 6 miles round-trip, carry one gallon of water per person on a hot day.

We were able to start walking at 8:15 am. The temperature was cool and we were in shade most of the way out on our out-and-back walk. The scenery was spectacular, especially with the sun coming up in the canyon.

Red, layered with white, grey, ochre and light green demonstrated the effects of eons of mostly water erosion. The oldest layers of rock in the canyon, Cloud Chief Gypsum, can't be seen in the Capitol Peak area, but can be seen in a few areas. Here at Capitol Peak, the lower Quartermaster and upper Tecovas formations are exposed. Quartermaster comprises red claystone/sandstone and white layers of gypsum. While above the Quartermaster, the Tecovas Formation is composed of yellow, gray and lavender mudstone and sandstone.

Capitol Peak and a hoodoo on the left

Capitol Peak with the hoodoo on the left

Combination of the Tecovas Formation with the Quartermaster produces triangular Spanish Skirts. See below. Fascinating geology on this walk today.

Spanish Skirts

As we walked the coyotes were yipping and yapping nearby. Meanwhile, my dogs were barking. After walking 12.4 miles yesterday, my blisters felt just like balloons and I spent most of this 6.2 miles limping. Definitely not at the top of my walking game. I was wearing the same hiking boots I wore yesterday, so all my owies were again getting rubbed the wrong way.

On the other hand, the formations drew my attention away from my feet as I gazed in wonder at what was around me. Below is the Lighthouse Formation for which this trail is named.

The Lighthouse in early morning light

Quartermaster Formation: sandstone/claystone with gypsum

Together at last.

We only had three mountain bikes pass us on the way out to the checkpoint. On the return trip, however, the mountain bike race was in full swing. They were flying down the trail. It was actually quite scary to be on the same trail with them. Many spots weren't very wide. Thankfully the bikers were going uphill in some of those areas so they couldn't go very fast. The sides of the trail had cacti with big spikes, so we couldn't step to the side very easily. On the downhills, the bikers were racing hard and flew around the corners. We did our best to stay out of their way.

From the Lighthouse Trail, we had a great view of our nemesis from yesterday, Fortress Cliff. Yes, we hiked from the canyon floor to the top of the cliff, traversed back and forth across the top, before we headed "down." Fortress Cliff showcases sandstone of the Trujillos Formation and the Ogallala Formation tops it off. The Ogallala is composed of sand, silt, clay, and limestone, which compose the hard caprock. [NOTE: The layers from top to bottom are: Cloud Chief Gypsum, Ogallala, Trujillos, Tecovas, Quartermaster, shale.] Fortress Cliff is shown in the photo below.

Fortress Cliff, yesterday's nemesis

When we returned to the truck, the outdoor thermometer read 90 degrees! As soon as we got into the truck, I took off my hiking boots and socks, then changed into clean, dry socks and comfortable walking shoes. We made our way back to Amarillo, hooked up the 5th wheel, and headed out for San Angelo, Texas.

Once again we drove through areas of cotton fields, wind farms and oil rigs. We made a quick stop for a photo of cotton. Thanks, Bob, for snapping this photo.

Cotton on the plant

After six hours of driving, we arrived at San Angelo State Park. Our water/electric pull-through site was $20. It was also time for us to renew our annual Texas State Park pass, so we paid $70 for that as well.

After we unhooked the Beast and set up Rigamarole, our day ended with this beautiful sunset.

Tomorrow...searching for Monarch butterflies at San Angelo State Park. 

Living on the Edge - Saturday, Oct. 10, 2015

AKA The Hike that Did Us In.

On our West Texas Trail Walkers Volksmarch weekend, our second "walk" is the Comanche Trail. Bob wanted to run the 20k (12.4 mile) trail by himself as part of his marathon training. The Volksmarch flyer describes this as: "the more difficult 20k includes the Rock Garden Trail up to the rim and along the Rylander Fortress Cliff Trail." Uh, Bob, do you think you can run that? The brochure also says: "Safety: PLEASE DO NOT HIKE ALONE." [Emphasis theirs.] So I made an agreement to hike the whole 20k with him. [NOTE: We did NOT run!]

Saturday morning was cool, but not cold. When we arrived at the Volksmarch start point at Chinaberry Day Use area we decided not to take coats. (Wise decision!) We had a backpack with six 16.9 fl. oz. bottles, two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, grapes, and whole grain chips. (I had wanted to take two more bottles of water, but Bob decided to leave them in the car.)

At the start point, we found out mountain bikers were having an event on the same trails we would be on this weekend. Yikes! That is not a good mix: slow walkers and fast mountain bikers. Thankfully, this was not a big issue today.

The air was clear and we started our climb up the Comanche Trail. The trail climbed steadily, leveled out for a bit, then had a series of ups and downs. Looking out over the canyon as we climbed and watching the sun creep down the canyon walls made for a beautiful start to our day. We were fresh and energetic. This was new territory for us.

Starting to get panoramic views from the trail

Colorful strata - each color from a different time period

Palo Duro Canyon from Comanche Trail

Our view as we get closer to the top

A flat part of Comanche Trail

View of Palo Duro Canyon

Cliff erosion

Dramatic scenery

North end of Rylander Fortress Cliff

Rylander Fortress Cliff - We hiked the top from one end
to the other and back again

Part of our trail looks like it had been washed out recently

Overlooking the canyon colors

Early, still happy, still some shade

Me starting to be tired

We had passed the 10k checkpoint which meant were were at 5k, one-fourth of the way done. Just past the checkpoint I started to feel tired. This part of the trail finished the climb to the top. All told, the elevation from the floor of the canyon to the top is 600'. See photo below.

Switchbacks up and up

The Rylander Fortress Cliff Trail was what we had to conquer once we reached the top. The Rock Garden Trail came up in the middle of Rylander Fortress. The hike had us walk to one end of the Cliff Trail (where I ate half my PB&J sandwich), look at the view, then turn around and walk to the other end of the Cliff Trail (Bob ate half of his PB&J sandwich here) and check out the view before heading down the Rock Garden Trail to hook up with the Comanche Trail. After working our butts off to get up there, we took a few photos.

Bob on the edge of the cliff

Proof I was there. Squinting with the sun in my eyes!

Still feeling pretty good.

Trail to south end of Rylander Fortress -
NO SHADE

Bob enjoying the view before we head back.

Looking down at Mesquite Camp and
Equestrian Camp Areas

It was time to hike down. The sun on top of the cliff was relentless. I was hitting the wall and we had a long way to go. I finished my PB&J sandwich. Thankfully the trail was mostly downhill, or so we thought.

The views were gorgeous

Living on the edge

Precariously positioned. I won't sit on this one!

Too hot. I couldn't keep up with Bob.

On the way down, we passed the 10k checkpoint. It was hot. We thought the worst was over and soon we'd be back at the truck drinking lots of water. There was still water left in our backpack, but not enough. We had to carefully ration out our water. The outside temperature as we descended into the canyon was about 89 degrees. Purgatory. Hell. Dangerous.

You would think going down the trail would be downhill. Not so on this trail. It kept going up and down, up and down, up and down. We were exhausted. At this point we were stopping to rest and drink water frequently (maybe every 500'). I ate a few grapes which gave a little burst of energy, but not enough.

We weren't the only ones suffering. Quite a number of people did the 20k (12.4 mile) Volksmarch. Many were experiencing the same difficulties we were as they stopped and sat in any shade they could find, even if it was on the ground in the midst of weeds and cacti.

Mother Nature's adolescent sculpture

Bob heading down

No shade on the trail most of the way down

In the distance sirens wailed. Our imaginations considered the possibility that a mountain biker had taken a spill off the trail. We found out later that one of the Volksmarchers was having heat-related issues. Other Volksmarchers helped him out until the EMTs arrived. Two ladies in particular were Good Samaritans. One had a tarp in her backpack and was able to provide shade. Some people hiking the trail had extra water which they poured over him to cool him off. When the EMTs arrived, they were able to revive him on the trail with IV fluids and he was able to walk out on his own. We're glad he was okay.

Anyway, with all of our stops to rest and drink water, the total time for our 20k was seven hours... seven hours in the heat of the day doing strenuous hiking. We started our journey at 8:40 a.m. and finished about 3:30 p.m.

While the hike was beautiful, it was also very hard. One time was enough for me!! Bob beat me back to the finish point and collapsed on the grass. I could barely walk. Both feet had big blisters. All I wanted to do was get to the truck and change into clean, dry socks and comfortable tennis shoes. Then I wanted a big meal!

The Trading Post in Palo Duro Canyon had combo meals with fries and a drink. Bob stayed in the truck with the air conditioner on while I went in to get lunch. We each had a turkey sandwich, fries and Dr. Pepper. I felt so much better after consuming carbs, protein, fat and sugar!

We had just enough time to go back to Ft. Amarillo RV Resort, shower, change clothes, and make it back to the West Texas Trail Walkers banquet at West Texas A&M University Alumni Hall at 7:00 p.m. The dinner was "A Tour of Italy" which included two pastas, two sauces, two meats, salad, and Key Lime pie. We scarfed it all down and listened to the West Texas Trail Walkers conduct their annual meeting.

Then we went back to the RV and collapsed for the night. Tomorrow, the 10k Lighthouse Trail.

Travel Bug out.

Road Trip Prep - The List was Long - Tues., Oct. 6

Our last road trip was in April. We are ready to hit the road. At 10 a.m. Wednesday we expect to pull out of Travelers World in San Antonio and head for Big Spring, Texas for the night...just a short stopover our way to Amarillo.

The past two days have been filled with chores. Monday I vacuumed, scrubbed the floors, dusted the overhead fan, defrosted the freezer, cleaned the bathroom, washed walls, did six loads of laundry, cleaned up clutter, and the RV repairman came in to fix a leak under our bathroom sink. 

Today I took "the Beast" in for a new fuel filter and cap. I asked them to check over the truck for a long road trip. Found out we needed a new serpentine (drive) belt, new back brakes (and rotors turned), an oil leak had to be fixed in the valve cover, and a state inspection needed to be done. I ended up sitting there for four hours. Thankfully I had lots of reading material. We'll have peace of mind on our drive to Amarillo. Priceless.

As I was driving back to the RV park I noticed the registration sticker on the truck expired in September. No grace period in Texas. After a tuna sandwich and carrot lunch, I went to the Tax Assessor's office (which is where we pay for our vehicle registration in San Antonio), took a number, and waited about ten minutes. That chore took much less time than I thought it would.

From the tax assessor I headed directly to the hairdresser. We talked about the color of my hair. I thought it was much too light the last time she colored it, so now it is back to a medium honey blonde. I'm much happier with the color. I also decided I'm going to grow it out a little, so she trimmed the bottom and we're letting the top grow. Upon arriving home from the hairdresser, I made spaghetti - a great big pot of it.

Bob has been working non-stop and long hours. He hired a new payroll person for the company he's working for so he's getting her set up and trained. Plus he took on a new accounting client and he had to do a big project for that company before we left. He worked Saturday, Sunday, late Monday night and late tonight. He's really ready for a vacation. Plus he's training for the San Antonio Rock 'n' Roll Marathon in December.

Our mini-vacation to Amarillo is for a Volksmarching weekend sponsored by the West Texas Trail Walkers club. We will be doing three walks (weather permitting): two in Palo Duro Canyon State Park, and one at Wildcat Bluff Nature Center. Saturday night we will be going to a banquet. We will be back in San Antonio next Monday.

Palo Duro Canyon is one of the largest canyons in the United States, second only to the Grand Canyon. The canyon is 120 miles long, as much as 20 miles wide, and has a maximum depth of more than 800'. Its elevation at the rim is 3,500' above sea level.

Early Spanish explorers are believed to have discovered the area and named the canyon "Palo Duro" which is Spanish for "hard wood" in reference to the abundant mesquite and juniper trees.

The weather looks pretty dicey for our drive north, especially Wednesday night and Thursday. Forecast says possible wind gusts to 50 mph, damaging hail, and 60% chance of heavy rain. Yikes. I hope it misses us.

My hair is not this blonde anymore.

See you down the road. Travel Bug out.